LIVE Demo: Twist-Out

Below are transcribed notes by Trinity Scribes for MoKnowsHair YouTube LIVE Styling Demo with Q&A, June 20, 2024.

Tonight’s Model: Kelli 

• high lift color over gray hair all throughout the roots
• high density
• Hair Type: 4
• a lot of hair/texture = swells easily (Kelli prefers twist outs over wash n gos)
• sleeps with hair secured with a silk/satin scrunchie/pineapple/extra large bonnet to preserve twist out

What was used to wash Kelli’s Hair: 

• Scalp Clarifier (removes build up)
• The Ultimate Hydrator (creamy, detangles, moisturizes, protects + MORE vitamin packed + slip. Sulfate FREE + pillow soft, gentle cleanser)
• Elasticity Restoring Treatment (let it sit for about 10 minutes - rinsed out)

To set Kelli’s (mix of 2 & 3 strand) twists:

• Curl Primer (leave-in treatment/misting spray) - detangles more + more slip + nutrient packed + Abyssinian/Grape seed/Castor oils *protects your hair from UV Rays damage/Environmental (pollutants) damage *Great for those who like to stay outside (swimming in pools/oceans)
• Smoothing Pudding (twist out cream) - repels humidity, traps moisture, improves the elasticity of your hair, smooth silky finish to the hair.
• Kelli sat under a bonnet attachment hooded dryer for about 1 hour & 15 minutes.

What Mo used in her hair (Wash-N-Go Bundle):

• Scalp Clarifier + The Ultimate Hydrator + Elasticity Restoring Treatment + Curl Primer + Styling Potion (lotion/leave-in) + Defining Gel *sat under hooded dryer, yesterday 

• It’s (shampoo) the foundation for moisture in your hair. If you feel like your hair is dry all the time, it’s the shampoo part.
• Elasticity Treatment = perfect for color treated hair + EVERY hair texture/type. It helps protect lipid barrier of your hair where moisture likes to seep out. It’s going to trap that moisture in and then protect your hair after it has been rinsed out (slows down breakage, helps you retain more length over time & overall, make the quality of your hair better). It does ALL the things you want a treatment to do, it’s going to treat!
• Use Curl Primer before going outside for swimming (will protect hair from absorbing so much pool/salt water from the ocean). This is a good step, before styling + refreshing. Great for misting on hair before going out in the sun.
• Those living in (where humidity is over 60%) the Gulf Area, Northeast, or live off the river = the Smoothing Pudding will help keep your hair from calling in outside moisture/helps your hair hold together better
• Defining Gel is aloe based, just like the Smoothing Pudding! It’s going to be more hydrating & defining. The casting/hold system has changed to combat previous issue with flaking.
• The Styling Potion has MORE: slip, hold & definition.
• You DON’T want to sleep with wet scalp. That will grow fungus. If you have itchy/flaky scalp, (after air drying and leaving it wet/covering with your scarf - you’re creating a perfect environment for fungus to grow; it’s warm/dark/wet). If you are doing this, stop. Get a hooded dryer/bonnet attachment for your hair dryer. *You’re holding yourself hostage with wet hair for an entire day. Don’t mess with the quality of your life. Get your time back and sit under a dryer to dry your hair - stop torturing yourselves. This allows you to dry your hair in 1-1.5 hours vs. 12 hours with air drying.
• How you set your hair really determines how your style looks. Make sure you get it really detangled.
• Consistency is going to be key with your treatment schedule. Treatments take affect over time. Nothing works in one use. Consistency wins the game.
• “The healthy hair you want is in the consistency you’re not sticking to.”
• Wash your hair once a week.
• If you have a lot of breakage/shedding/your hair is hard to detangle - you’re the person who needs to do the wash day once a week. Quit holding out, because the longer you go, the drier your hair is going to get. You’re going to have more tangles. You keep your hair more hydrated by washing your hair, weekly.
• If you are having more trouble, you probably need to be washing more often. Pro Tip: Mo washes her hair EVERY 5-7 days. She’s working out every day/sweating in her scalp a lot.
• ALWAYS do your deep treatment, EVERY week. You’ll start to see the progression of your hair.
• The goal, when you go to a stylist = they don’t have to cut as much as you grew.
• “If you feel like you’re getting no retention, that is rooted in your wash day.”
• Moisture comes in your wash process, not misting your hair after it has already been set/closed for business. That’s how you retain moisture in your hair.
• It’s kinda like the clothes you put on your body. The health of your body is rooted in what you eat/working out/getting plenty of rest = how you look in your clothes is determined by that! Well, styling products are like clothing.

Styling Tips:

• Saturate hair from roots to ends with Curl Primer = less snagging/friction.
• Tangle Teezer (The Ultimate Detangler - 22.1’x 6.6cm). Make sure your products are fully distributed in every section of hair.
• Curl Primer - you can use blow dryer heat after use but NOT flat iron heat. It doesn’t provide enough protection for that.
• Smoothing Pudding can also be used as a hair dress for slicking hair into ponytails. It’s also great for: twist outs, wash n go’s, braid). Won’t set with a cast (no more fine dust flaking). NOW, Aloe based!
• When you’re adding styling products, make sure that your hair has a lot of water to make sure product evenly distributes. If your hair starts to dry, keep your spray bottle on hand/nearby.
• 3 strand twists come out looking more spiral shaped than 2 strand twists’ bends/zig zags.
• Always make sure the section of hair you’re working on is FULLY detangled. If not, it will reflect in your final twist.
• 3 strand twists: Divide hair into 3 separate sections/equal parts. You’re wrapping the sections around each other (2 strand twists - you’re weaving in).
• 3 strand twists: Left hand pulls the piece over while right hand holds the other 2 sections. First piece of hair between the first finger and thumb + 2nd piece between 1st finger & 2nd finger. Now, twist them all at the same time. Take the piece that furthest after twisting - pick up the 2nd piece + 3rd piece and turn them again. So, you’re just wrapping them around each other OR twirl all at the same time. Practice it. Once you get it, you’ve got it. 
• Keep your sections nice and separated so you’re not borrowing hair from one section to another - you don’t want the definition to be interrupted by that. Take your time. Twirl ends together.
• Air drying your hair will lead to mushy twist out results because you’re allowing all the humidity around you to settle into your hair. If your twist outs/rod sets are goofy after take down - sitting under the dryer, instead, will help you to control that frizz.
• Smoothing Pudding can just be misted with water after a few days to re-twist as needed.

Questions from live audience:

• Tangled twist out take down? Get every tangle out. Your hair needs to be smooth. Use tension while you’re twisting. Take your time - work your way all the way down & let the twist open where you see it wants to open naturally. Twist your hair neatly. *You can add oil to your fingers to add some extra slip, if needed. You may want to put a little gel on just the tip of the twist before sitting under the dryer.
• Wiry/Super dry Gray Hair? Check out the Elasticity Restoring Treatment + Smoothing Pudding (thicker cream based products will help that gray hair act like it has some sense - it definitely likes to play games!) Make sure you’re using the Ultimate Hydrator + Elasticity Restoring Treatment + Curl Primer = cleanse/condition/protect your hair at each step/every stage will help you.
• Should the Elasticity Restoring Treatment be used weekly? Yes.
• Humidity? The stylers: Defining Gel + Styling Potion + Smoothing Pudding all made to repel moisture. Gel & Pudding is aloe based/gentle on scalp.
• Heat damaged hair (needed more context from “Lisa”)? Definitely use the Elasticity Restoring Treatment.
• What if I don’t live in a humid climate, can I still use the products? Lower humidity - living in Arizona/certain areas of California, these products will be good because Mo didn’t put glycerin in them. Sometimes, glycerin will go look for moisture (moisture calling ingredient). Mo, used aloe instead of glycerin as a base for the stylers for this reason. They’re good in drier/more humid climates.
• Braid wearer? Make sure that you are keeping your scalp clean. Use the Scalp Clarifier. Use the Curl Primer spray - it’ll act as a leave in conditioning treatment. Saturating those braids with that to help your hair stay together in those braids so it isn’t so dry. Note: braiding hair is drying. It’s synthetic. It’s going to pull all of the moisture out of your hair and it’s lots of friction. Keep your hair as hydrated as you possibly can. Don’t leave your braids in for too long. 4 weeks is maximum, honestly. Keeping braids in for extended periods of time will cause your hair to become weak (not detangled, hydrated, properly cleansed). Your hair will be brittle and breaking upon take down. *Pro tip: When your braids are being dipped in hot water to set them - DON’T let them dip your braids in hot water up to where your hair is because if your hair ends up in that boiling water, it is going to burn/break/frazzle it/tear your hair up. So BE CAREFUL with that.
• PH Balance of products? All are in the safe 4-6 range.
• Will the products be available in stores? That’s in the future plans! 
• High Color Regimen (high lift/highlights/blonde/red/etc)? You NEED moisture. Scalp clarifier + The Ultimate Hydrator + Elasticity Restoring Treatment + Curl Primer. These things will hydrate & protect your hair at each stage of your wash day.
• Is the Co-wash like a refresher between wash n go’s? Yes, it can be, especially if you have short hair. Sometimes, the weight from your head during sleeping flattens your hair. It’s a great way to refresh your hair without doing a full shampoo/condition - so, it’s a combination of cleanser & conditioner in one step. It’s NOT a replacement for shampoo & treatment. But, it is a good bridge product. It’s also going to be good for coming out of a protective style (detangling/shed hair/kids play outside and roll around in the grass/etc.) *Pro Tip: Mo likes to travel with it. It’s one product to pack instead of 2 until getting home to full regimen.
• How long should the Defining Gel last with weekly use? It’s a 12oz. bottle. Mo can use it about 8-9 times. So, that’s like 8 weeks, give or take; depending on how much you use. You probably shouldn’t be using more than 1-2 ounces of any product at one time *of any brand. If product is plopping/frothing all over when you’re applying it, you’re using too much product. You are wasting product. Use less...you don’t need to use as much as you think you do! *Pro tip: When creams come in contact with water (your wet hair), they expand/emulsify/attach to the hair - so there’s no need to dig out a bunch of it. A dollop is good for a whole quadrant of hair, easily. You shouldn’t just see product sitting on your hair after you’ve applied it. If so, you’ve used too much.

Final notes:

• Blog Post: Summer Hair Care Tips *keep up with deep conditioning + curl primer for being out in the sun/swimming/traveling/etc. Protect your hair from outside elements and damage.
• Pro Tip: You can use the Defining Gel by itself, too. Mo likes to apply the gel over the Styling Potion. You can put the Defining Gel by itself, it is aloe based & hydrating so it won’t feel dry or hard. Mo likes to add more weight. She doesn’t refresh/re-wet/re-set her hair, so she likes her hair to start very neat/condensed. You can use the Defining Gel after you’ve washed out the Elasticity Restoring Treatment OR after applying the Curl Primer. It can go on the hair, just by itself, if you want it to.
• Pro Tip: With styling products, try things different ways to see what you like. Sometimes, you think, ‘well, this is the way I’ve always done it’. When, something may work better by itself. You don’t know it because you haven’t tried it. Mo likes to apply product differently on each side of her head (one product vs. layered products) to see what she likes better. Try things multiple ways to see what you’re actually going to like.