In this tutorial I share details about my hair, my full regimen for healthy length retention and give you some tips you can apply to your regimen! All of the information shared here is shown in the full tutorial with demo and pictures.
My hair color:
I have been various tones of red for the last 12 years. During the pandemic I let the color grow out a lot and eventually used Ion Permanent 7RC for a “ginger” tone. When I was ready to go back to full red tone, the Ion Demi Permanent 6RV that I used for a lot of years was discontinued during the pandemic, so I tried Wella Color Charm Demi Permanent 7RR in early 2023. It bled-out for over six washes and faded too fast, so I have not used that again. I used Ion Permanent 7RR later in 2023, but it fades a little too orange-toned for me. The last time I colored my hair in April 2024, I used Ion Permanent 7IR and that’s the one! This is as closest to the Demi 6RV tone that I liked and fades without getting too orange.
My hair shape/cut:
I have long layers with a squared-off perimeter and long face-framing fringe and I trim about every four months now. I stopped cutting lots of length out in 2018 when I was formulating the first MoKnowsHair Collection. Prior to that, the round shape you remember me having for years was a result of cutting a couple inches every 3-4 months to keep it shorter.
My texture:
It appears tighter now because I don’t straighten my hair as much, maybe twice a year compared to every six weeks or so when it was collar bone length. I also have been using my (Curl Restoring) Elasticity Restoring Treatment since 2018, so the elasticity and curl pattern definition is on-point!
My weekly routine:
My weekly routine is consistent. I wash every 6-7 days and 95% of the time it’s a wash-n-go. That’s the style that works best for me as far as time, effort and longevity. The other 5% is either roller set/blowout/silk press, the occasional twist/braid out or some type of bun/protective style where all my hair is tucked away.
Wash-n-go steps:
Step 1: Apply Scalp Clarifier and massage for 1-2 minutes, rinse out.
I workout daily, so by the time I am washing, my scalp has been sweated out a lot and I need to get all the build-up out. You cannot have healthy hair without a healthy scalp! This treatment gently exfoliates follicles and helps restore your scalp’s natural pH level while reducing any flaking or itching. It goes on cool, lathers nicely and starts the detangling process by rinsing away the old product. I use this every washday.
Step 2: Apply The Ultimate Hydrator shampoo and massage it from roots to ends and rinse out with lukewarm water.
This cleanser is made for weekly use. It is formulated to remove build-up, hydrate and repair at the same time. This is the part of the process where the moisture retention starts. You cannot retain moisture in dirty hair because you need the cuticle to open up and let water pass through. I will opt for the Moisturizing Co-Wash if I need to reset my hair in between washdays or if I am traveling so I can take less products.
Step 3: Apply the Elasticity Restoring Treatment and detangle, cover with a processing cap for 5-10 minutes.
If you prefer to detangle outside the shower, apply this treatment in the shower so it can start to absorb while your hair is soaking wet to save time and product. If you have low porosity, you can add an additional 10-15 min and use a heat source.
This treatment is the key 🔑 element of my length retention. It’s not about how fast your hair grows, what matters is how much you can retain! If you are having to cut as much as you grow because of breakage, then you don’t get any length gains. Using this treatment weekly has let me go from collarbone length to tailbone length in about three years and keep it there if I feel like it. Right now the longest parts of my hair are about 20 inches. Yes, genetics determine your hair’s rate of growth, but what you do with it on this side of your scalp determines the retention of the growth!
FHI Heat UNbrush is an ergonomic, easy gliding, detangling brush. If you don’t have a brush you love yet, this is definitely worth trying. Use code MOKNOWSHAIR at checkout for an additional 10% off!
Step 4: Apply Curl Primer and evenly distribute with Tangle Teezer brush.
I started with the Scalp Clarifier, then used the Elasticity Restoring Treatment and now the Curl Primer as my leave-in to complete my treatment trifecta! This gives me hydration, repair and protection at each phase of my washday process.
The Curl Primer has so many benefits - it detangles, hydrates, repairs, protects from structural and environmental damage, refreshes and lays the foundation for definition in styling… she’s that GIRL! The texture of this is very silky, smooth and blends well under all the other stylers. It can also be used to refresh and hydrate curls, coils, braids, locs and wigs.
Step 5: Apply Styling Potion and Defining Gel, brush through, finger shingle individual curls.
Here is the guide I use for deciding on the mix for these three:
Curl Primer + Styling Potion = less hold, more volume
Curl Primer + Defining Gel = more hold, less volume
Curl Primer + Styling Potion + Defining Gel = medium hold and volume
The Styling Potion is loaded with healthy fatty acids, essential oils and hydrating aloe juice to define curls and lock-in moisture with a supple, smooth finish. The difference you will see and feel is the moisture retention, definition and the clumping power is increased with incredible slip.
The Defining Gel is more moisturizing and flexible than the first collection. The base of this is aloe leaf juice and argan oil to make it more hydrating and able to resist atmospheric moisture while giving a smooth, flake-free finish. It hydrates as it repairs and protects with hydrolyzed wheat protein for strength and structure and Mongongo oil to form a protective barrier preventing moisture loss and protection against outside pollutants.
PRO-TIP: The key is to not overuse stylers with hold! You cannot beat your hair into submission by over-applying products. The way you improve definition (structure) is with consistent, proper care - cleansing and conditioning are your foundation!
Step 6: Sit under hooded dryer for ~10 min. then diffuse.
For the last few years, I have been primarily sitting under my ceramic hooded dryer because it’s faster, less labor and it keeps the swelling down and definition intact. It takes ~45-60 minutes to dry on medium heat. If I want to start with more volume, I will sit under the dryer for about 10 min or air dry for 30 min and then diffuse.
Tools: FHI Heat Platform 2000 Dryer (use code MOKNOWSHAIR for additional 10% off) and Red by Kiss 1875 Ceramic Hooded Dryer
PRO-TIP: Letting products start drying before diffusing helps them lock-in so the hair isn’t frizzing during diffusing. If you have a lot of shrinkage and texture, you should sit under a hooded dryer. That is going to keep more of the stretch you see when wet and keep it from frizzing. If your hair is always frizzy, puffy and mushy, sit under a dryer. The humidity in the air around you is keeping it wet too long and your products aren’t setting properly. Diffusers are volumizing tools made to amplify texture and volume.
A few other things to note:
- I drink a gallon of water a day. I go to bed at night and get 7-8 hours of sleep most often and I eat at home 90% of the time. I don’t smoke, I drink socially/occasionally, I workout regularly and don’t have any prescriptions for health conditions. I say all of this to say, your bodily health will play a role in the health of your hair and skin. You have to take care of yourself! Get annual physicals with bloodwork so you know your numbers. Low iron, vitamin D, thyroid issues and other deficiencies can cause hair loss and low scalp circulation, which can lead to weaker new growth. If you have prescriptions for heart related conditions or other auto-immune diseases, they can sometimes interfere with the health of your hair. If you feel they are, talk to your doctor, but know their priority is keeping you alive, not your hair, so do what your doctor says first always!
- I get asked about hair vitamins a lot. I don’t use them, and never have. I drink my water, eat a balanced diet as much as possible and stick to a consistent regimen. If you have a diagnosed deficiency that needs supplement, that’s different and you definitely want to work with your doctor on that. Some non-health related vitamins are synthetic or overloaded with more milligrams of ingredients than your body can absorb. Your body is biologically efficient - it will discard anything it receives in excess. If you do want to try something, just consult with your doctor first, especially if you take medication for any conditions. This is not to be confused with medical-grade hair loss treatments administered by licensed professionals; those are different and can be effective in a lot of cases.
How I sleep with my hair (shown in video tutorial):
I fold one corner under and wrap from behind my head, crossing over the front and twirling the ends before tying in the back. This makes it sturdier and less likely to come off at night. Then I stuff the hair in the top and tuck the corner. This is what I call an enclosed pineapple. This stays on all night for me, and in the morning I can shake my hair down. The products having flexible hold allow me to do this and keep the shape of the curls.
How I workout and maintain my style (shown in video tutorial):
When I workout, I loop my hair through a scrunchi into a loose bun and tie a stretchy satin scarf around the perimeter. When I’m done, I air dry or use my blow dryer on the roots on low speed, medium heat. I use edge gel if I want a more polished look and tie my edges down with a scarf while I get dressed.
Total time for my washday is around 2.5 hours start to finish. It’s rather simple - just cleanse, condition and style!
I hope these tips and tutorial help you in your journey whether you’ve been good for years or having some challenges. Take what you need and apply it and share with your community!
