In this tutorial I show you how to create bouncy, voluminous wand curls in just a few easy steps with NO blow drying or flat ironing! <Watch here>
STEP 1: Prep (cleanse and condition)
The key for any heat style to look its best, have longevity and not cause damage is in the foundation – how you set it up. My wash process for this, and every other washday is:
- Scalp Clarifier to remove any build-up, rebalance my scalp, and improve circulation to stimulate healthy growth. In this case, I lathered it through my ends after adding a little water in shower for a deeper cleanse.
- The Ultimate Hydrator shampoo to cleanse any residual old product, hydrate and repair my strands.
- Elasticity Restoring Treatment to insert the vitamins, essential oils and protein needed to make sure the cortex is hydrated and nourished while repairing any holes in the cuticle layer to prevent moisture loss and create a smooth canvas for styling. Using this treatment every week for the last six years is what lets me retain over 20 inches in length, with defined curls, while using high lift color and still having the option to heat style without damage.
STEP 2: Apply heat protecting products, clump curls and set under hooded dryer.
Now I am going to prep my hair for the wand curls by applying a heat protecting serum and foam setting styler. Both of these are formulas I am working on for you all, so stay tuned for more on that later, but for now, you can use whatever heat protecting spray or serum you like and a foam styler that is ok to be used with direct heat. Here are a few recommendations:
- Chi Total Protect
- KeraCare Thermal Wonder
- Mizani Setting Foam
- KeraCare Foam Setting Lotion
- Nairobi Foaming Lotion
I am applying the foam in sections and setting it like I would my wash-n-go – shingling curl clumps together. This is going to allow my natural texture to be the base of the wand curls. After I get all of the hair situated, I will go under my ceramic hooded dryer until it is completely dry.
STEP 3: Install wand curls, separate and style.
I am using the Red By Kiss half inch ceramic wand, however, this size is harder to track down than I thought it would be, so here are some alternatives:
- Red By Kiss one inch ceramic curling wand and tapered curling wand
- T3 Micro half inch ceramic curling iron
- IKV 1/2 inch curling wand
I am starting in the back, using a pea size amount of Chi Silk Infusion to prime the sections then I will simply wrap from roots to ends, hold for a few seconds and release. As I am installing the curls, I am using a bit of Agadir Argan Oil Hairspray to set these with a little more flexible hold.
Here are a few tips for wand curling:
- You have to neatly and tightly wrap the hair around the wand from the base to the tip. In order to get it on evenly, use the base of the iron against your head to keep it still so you can wind the hair around without it sliding down the barrel.
- You need to hold the hair on the barrel for 3-5 seconds to allow the heat to fully penetrate since there is no clip on the iron to enclose or apply tension. When you release, if you want the curl to have all the shrinkage, you have to hold it in your hand until it cools off, use a blow dryer cool shot or clip it to your scalp like a pin curl.
- Getting the hair smooth while wet and setting it in my natural texture is allowing this to have a smooth finish and hold the shape of the curl. I am essentially taking my s-shaped curl patten and making it more of a 3D spiral. Whenever you fully straighten your hair with a flatiron and then go back in and curl it, it won’t have the same amount of texture grip because the memory of your hair was set straight with direct heat, tension based styling. These curls are staying more true to texture versus the more stretched version I would get if I had straightened my hair first. This also is a great way to save time and effort because there was no blow dry and straighten first - such an easier way to do this with less direct heat contact!
Nighttime Routine: For bed, I will treat these curls like my wash-n-go and tie them up in an enclosed pineapple, take down and fluff in the morning, adding a bit of Chi Silk Infusion and edge gel if needed.
Color: Ion Permanent Crème 7IR + 30 vol on the roots and 20 vol on mid-lengths and ends (both 1:1.5), processed for 30 min, washed with Ion Color Defense Shampoo, followed by Ion After Color Sealer and my Elasticity Restoring Treatment.
Cut: Long round layers with square perimeter <click here for a haircut guide>
MUA: Mia (Atlanta), @grindpretty and @mimijonline
Photographer: Drea Nicole (Atlanta), @dreanicolephotography
I hope this tutorial help you with wand curling and maybe some inspiration for holiday styling since that season is now upon us!
