This tutorial is the first in a series all about curl damage and how to grow through it! Here’s what we’ll cover in this video:
- What curl bonds are and how they are broken (or “damaged”), cuticle damage and elasticity
- Types of curl pattern damage + causes
- Scalp health – dandruff/fungal bacteria and tools sanitization
- Style
– three-strand twist-out to blend textures - Recovery regimen building – steps to implement
Bond repair has been the new, shiny catch phrase of the hair space, so let’s start with what are bonds?
Cortex Side Bonds
The cortex is the middle layer of the strand made of protein and cells containing melanin pigment.
The cortex is made up of millions of polypeptide chains cross linked by three types of side bonds:
- Hydrogen bonds – are weak physical bonds broken by water to allow the hair to be stretched and reform when the hair is dried. This type of bond is broken and reformed every time you to wash your hair.
- Salt bonds – are weak physical bonds broken by drastic changes in pH, or strong alkaline or acidic solutions and they are neutralized by using products that adjust pH back to the normal range. For example, when you color your hair, the dye is high alkaline and using after color treatment adjusts pH back down.
- Disulfide bonds – are strong chemical bonds that determine the shape or texture of the strand (curl pattern) and are permanently broken by chemical processes like relaxers or perms or excessive heat from tools (flat/curling irons).
What is the cuticle layer?
The cuticle is the outermost layer of the strand made of up overlapping cells that protect the cortex. When this layer becomes damaged from over manipulation, friction, excessive heat, it frays open and is no longer able to protect the cortex. Cuticle damage also makes it harder for styling products with casting, or hold, to attach properly which can cause flaking or hair to be excessively puffy or frizzy.
What is elasticity?
Elasticity is a measure of the overall strength of the strand determined by balance of protein and moisture; how much it can stretch and return to its original shape without breaking.
So let’s put all of this together. When we are talking about structural or “curl pattern” damage, this is where elasticity comes into play. If your hair is not balanced with enough protein and moisture, and it is being over manipulated physically or chemically over processed, the cuticle layer of the hair is lifted and frayed so the cortex of the hair loses moisture and becomes damaged.
What does structural damage look like?
There are a number of symptoms that can be experienced and they can be at varying levels of minimal to extreme such as:
- excessive frizz immediately after styling
- lack of curl definition
- pieces or sections that remain straight
- very inconsistent curl shapes throughout
- inability to absorb or retain moisture
- excessive shedding or breakage
- flaky results with styling products
What to do forward…
The severity of the damage and how long it has persisted determines how fixable it is. In some cases, altering your regimen will give significant improvement in the appearance and behavior of the hair. In other cases, you style through it as you grow new hair if you aren’t interested in a big chop. Either way, there is a path to healthier hair and how you get there is solely based on your willingness to be consistent, patient and disciplined!
No matter what caused the issue, the steps I am going to walk through are ones you can apply to your regimen. Doesn’t matter what your curl pattern is, or your density level, these healthy hair regimen steps are applicable to all! You got this…and I'm here to help you!
Sade - Situation Analysis
Sade wears a range of styles from natural, to straight, extension ponytails and braids. Over the course of the last several months, she has been experiencing a whirlwind of issues.
Based on what she shared with me, here’s what I’ve deducted:
- The excessive scalp flaking is likely a fungal bacteria gained from dirty tools being used during the braiding process. If combs, clips and other items are not washed and properly and disinfected with barbicide, bacteria can be transferred to another client’s scalp and spread. Untreated, it manifests as extreme flaking. (Also watch: 10 Reasons You Have Scalp Issues + How To Fix It)
- The straight pieces and loss of curl pattern definition throughout is attributed to excessive heat from a non-ceramic blow dryer to prep the hair for braiding and the dipping of the braids in boiling hot water and not excluding the part of the braid where her hair was intertwined.
You need to be careful going to unlicensed people for services! In this case, the damage is done and we can’t go back, only forward. So, my goal is to get Sade back on track. I am going to walk you through this washday and at the end, give you the full regimen I am asking her to follow until I see her again.
CLEANSE
Step 1: Starting with the Scalp Clarifier will ensure that product build-up, outside pollutants and general debris from sweating and just existing are removed while maintaining the normal pH of your scalp. The salicylic acid in this treatment is going to gently exfoliate and help slow and stop flaking over time as well as reduce excessive shedding. This formula is made to be used weekly. Even if you don’t have flaky or itchy scalp, it is going to benefit the health of your follicles which is critical for stimulating healthy growth.
Step 2: Apply The Ultimate Hydrator to cleanse, hydrate and repair. The unique blend of botanicals, essential oils and proteins give scalp and hair pH balance while improving the overall health with each wash. It’s got carrot seed oil to stimulate growth, hydrolyzed wheat protein to strengthen and marshmallow root to improve elasticity and combat itchy, dry scalp.
CONDITION
Step 3: I am going to apply the Elasticity Restoring Treatment, detangle and cover with a cap for 10 minutes. Adding a heat source will help with penetration if you find your hair is having hard time retaining moisture.
Cuticle layer damage is common in curly hair so you have to consistently treat it. This is what led me to make this treatment! It is formulated to repair the cuticle, or lipid barrier of your strands so your hair retains more moisture with less frizz while strengthening and repairing. It’s balancing the protein and moisture content in your strands.
STYLE
Step 4: Apply Curl Primer and part into sections. Then apply Smoothing Pudding, evenly distribute with a brush, three-strand twist and secure with a clip at the roots to hold in place. Set under hooded dryer, separate and fluff, add finishing oil, edge gel and hair spray to finish (if desired).
The Curl Primer is a leave-in treatment that detangles, hydrates, repairs, protects from structural and environmental damage, refreshes, and it lays the foundation for definition in styling. This is a part of what I call the MoKnowsHair Trifecta - the Scalp Clarifier + Elasticity Restoring Treatment + Curl Primer are giving you hydration, repair and protection at each phase of the washday process.
I am using the Smoothing Pudding to three-strand twist. This is a buttery, rich cream with flexible hold that will not only hydrate and make the hair smooth and supple, it is going to be more graceful to sleep with and not have her hair flattened to her head in the morning.
PRO-TIP: The key is to not overuse stylers. It should not look like cake batter. If you have visible pods of product after twisting, blow them away with a microfiber towel so they don’t become flaky and sticky when dry.
Sade’s New Regimen:
WASHDAY STEPS - keeping it simple is best!
CLEANSE:
- Apply Nizoral to scalp, massage in for 1-2 min and rinse (pending progress in reduction of flaking, she will switch to the Scalp Clarifier after a few weeks to maintain)
- Shampoo with The Ultimate Hydrator
CONDITION:
- Apply Elasticity Restoring Treatment, section and detangle. Cover with processing cap for 10 minutes under dryer.
STYLE:
- Set hair in natural style under the dryer and modify with accessories or pins, buns through the week until next washday.
Other instructions:
- NO braids or other high-tension styles.
- Drink half body weight in ounces of water (preferably a gallon) per day and eat nutrient dense foods.
- Stick to the MoKnowsHair cleansers and treatment only, no substitutions (remember: consistency!)
- Do washday every 5-7 days (hair will not hold moisture longer than this; your scalp and hair need to be cleansed and conditioned on a solid schedule).
- Resist the urge to rewet hair midweek – that leads to more manipulation and breakage. If absolutely unavoidable, use the Moisturizing Co-Wash to reset.
- Clean and disinfect hair tools each washday (watch: How to Cleanse + Disinfect Your Tools)
- Make a dermatologist appointment to have scalp and hairline examined and diagnose/rule out any conditions.
- Mist forehead/hairline area twice daily with Mario Badescu Repairing Facial Spray with Hypochlorous Acid to reduce inflammation and breakouts.
- If scalp becomes itchy before washday, apply Heritage Store Rosewater mist to soothe (oil will cause pH imbalance and more irritation/flaking).
Here are some tutorials to help you on your journey!
- My Length Retention Regimen + Tips
- 10 Reasons You Have Scalp Issues + How To Fix It
- How to Cleanse + Condition Your Natural Hair
- How to Cleanse + Disinfect Your Tools
- 5 Most Common Causes of Breakage + How To Fix It
- Moisturizing Natural Hair - Is it dry or dull?
I hope you learned some new things and this helps you add to or modify your regimen. In the next installment of this series, I will talk about hair growth cycles and more things you can do to improve your regimen and style through it!
